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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.